Japanese Kimono Fabric

Yuzen

Yuzen is a dyeing technique established in 17th century Japan/ Patterns are drawn directly on to the fabric using a dye resistant rice paste. The paste is then washed away and the process is repeated to add each color. The final washing process needs to be in cold water so it was traditionally done in rivers. The paste washed away to reveal beautiful and vibrant patterns. Because of the time involved and the artistry required, yuzen dyed kimonos have always commanded high prices. They were often commissioned by special clients.

Since the 19th century, most yuzen fabrics are made using the ‘Kata Yuzen’ technique, where each color is added with the use of wooden stencils, much like traditional wood block printing. This method of production made the fabric more widely available and enabled ordinary women to wear kimonos which were once only worn by the aristocracy.

Shibori

These are patterned by tightly wrapping tiny sections of the lightweight white silk with thread. When the fabric is dyed, the wrapped areas remain white, forming a slightly irregular repeat pattern of tiny circles. The fabric retains its characteristic puckered surface. Shibori techniques can also be produced by clamping, stitching, or folding the fabrics in various ways, to produce unusual patterning.

Meisen

Generally crisp and supple, Meisen is one of the Japanese silks fabricated by weaving pre-dyed threads, utilizing the tie-and-resist ikat technique (ikat is an Indonesian term used to refer to this technique). In this process, the threads, silk, or cotton are first stretched on a frame. Selected design areas are tightly bound to prevent the dye from penetrating the dye pots. The bound portions of the yarn resist the dye and when woven, as a result of the threads not being perfectly aligned, it creates shapes with charmingly uneven edges.

Meisen silk was a popular fabric for casual kimono from the 1920s to the 1950s, in part because it was more affordable, and because the designs, drawing on Western influences, seemed adventurous and innovating. Even today they retain a contemporary sensibility.